An Extremely Simple Primer
To Drum Tuning For Non-Drummers
One of the most difficult things
to record is a drum kit. This
of course makes perfect sense
since you are talking about normally
7-10 discrete acoustic instruments,
some with very different tonal
characteristics, all sitting
right next to each other.
But if your recording is going
to sound good, your drums need
to sound good. And one of the
keys to a good sounding drum
kit is proper tuning. However,
many drummers don’t know,
don’t care, or have weird
misconceptions about drum tuning,
and since at the end of the day
the sound of the drums will reflect
more on you than the drummer,
its best for most engineers/producers
to have at least some idea of
how to tune a kit and get the
best sound out of it. I will
also throw in some general tips
I have learned for getting the
best drum sound.
Preparing the Kit
Replace all drum heads
This might seem like a pretty
obvious concept but 4 out of
5 times when I have recorded
drummers they show up with old
heads, some which seem like they
are the ones that came with the
drum when they bought it. Usually
they are convinced that the heads
sound just fine because they
replaced them just a couple of
months ago. They don’t,
and usually they are surprised
how good their drums sound with
new heads. Normally this is best
done the day before recording
so the heads have time to stretch
out overnight. But if you have
to do it the day of, do it.
Coated or non-Coated?
Although there is a slight tonal
difference (coated heads being
slightly “drier”),
the only reason you need coated
heads is if the drummer is playing
brushes.
Tighten up
Check the kit for any loose
screws or lugs that might rattle.
The sound of a rattling screw
is easy to miss while checking
sounds, and impossible to remove.
Also check kick drum and hi-hat
pedals for squeaks and apply
a little WD-40 if necessary.
Basic Tuning
The basic idea behind tuning
any drum is that you want the
tension to be even over the entire
surface of the head. Take a drumstick
and tap near the lug (those are
the screws that hold the head
on) and listen for the pitch,
then taking a drum key tighten
the other lugs so that they are
the same pitch. You may find
that as you tighten one the others
may go out of tune so you will
need to repeat the process 2
or 3 times. If the heads are
new, do it roughly and then hit
the drum 20 or 30 times, then
repeat. Another thing to remember
if you’re working with
new heads, you may want to over-tighten
at first so the drum will stretch
out more quickly. Once you have
evened out the tension, you can
begin to choose what you want
the tone of the drum to be. (I
will cover that more specifically
for each type of drum) You may
want to use a product called “Lug
Locks”, which are pieces
of plastic which hold the lug
in place so it doesn’t
loosen over time. This will help
keep your drum tone consistent
from take to take. They are cheap
($25 for a pack of 100) and will
save you a lot of re-tuning.
Tuning each drum
Snare Drum
The snare is the hardest drum
to tune as it actually is a crazy
little device, acoustic-wise.
Also, you can really get a variety
of different tones depending
on how you tune it.
1. You can normally tune the
ring out of a snare by carefully
making the tension equal as described
above. But for some reason, sometimes
this doesn’t work. Try
tapping around each lug till
you hear the part of the drum
that sounds most like the note
of the ring, and try changing
that lug (and then even out the
others). Also check the bottom
head to make sure it is not tuned
to the same pitch. If this still
doesn’t work, don’t
resort to duct tape and Kleenex
yet. You can make your own approximation
of a product called “Dead
Ringer” by cutting up an
old drum head (preferably off
the same drum). First cut a circle
as close to the edge as you can,
and then cut another circle about
an inch smaller. Then place this “ring” on
the drum. This will normally
dampen most rings without killing
the tone. Of course ignore all
of this if a “ringy” snare
drum, ala Pearl Jam, is what
you are looking for.
2. Tighten the bottom head very
tight (being careful again to
keep the tension even) so as
to make the snares as responsive
as possible. (by the way, these
are the wires that stretch across
the bottom head, if you ever
wondered where the name came
from) Adjust the snare tension
screw for how “tight” you
want the sound. Generally, tighter
snares will give you a faster
attack and decay.
3. The style of music that is
being played will do a lot to
determine how tight the top head
needs to be. Drummers who play
hard (rock, metal, etc) will
need to keep the head somewhat
loose so they can “dig
in” and hit hard, funk
and jazz players will need the
head pretty tight so that they
can get the proper response for
things like “ghost notes” and
press rolls.
Note: It is my opinion that
most recording studios would
behoove themselves to purchase
one good snare drum that can
be substituted for one that just
cannot be saved. If you want
a quick and easy solution pick
up a Ludwig Black Beauty. They
are fairly common so they are
relatively cheap ($3-400) on
the used market, they are versatile
in terms of what sort of sounds
you can get, and unless you get
a really beat-to-death one, they
almost always sound great.
Kick Drum
Besides evening out the tension,
how you tune the kick really
depends on what sort of sound
you want. Generally I like to
tune it as low as possible until
it becomes “flabby” and
then tightening it back up a
little. This gives you a very
deep sound. If you want a little
more “click” you
can try placing a piece of duct
tape right where the batter meets
the head and tuning the head
up a little. You can also purchase
bass drum heads designed just
for this purpose.
There are a lot of other factors
that really affect the sound
of the kick drum, such as whether
you have a front head, and what
sort of batter you use, but since
they are about tuning I will
skip them.
Another Note: this is purely
an aesthetic choice, but one
thing I have learned from making
drum sounds and programming drums
is that the kick and snare generally
sound best together when they
are tuned an octave apart. Of
course since they don’t
really have a fundamental pitch,
you will need to do this strictly
by ear.
Toms
There are two theories of tom
tuning. One is to tune the toms
to a particular pitch. This is
done by tuning both bottom and
top heads to the same pitch.
Even when I don’t plan
on keeping it to a single pitch
(get to that in a second) I will
do this to determine the “resonant” note
of the tom.
In my experience, most drums
have a note at which they naturally
resonate, giving you the fullest
tone, but the only way to know
this is by experimenting. You
have experienced this if you
have ever played an instrument
in the same room as a kit and
noticed that the drum resonates
(sometimes annoyingly so) when
you hit a certain note.
Now, while tuning the toms to
a particular pitch does give
you a very nice tone, it also
means that if your tom is out
of tune with the song it’s
going to sound bad. So I will
usually go with tuning to separate
pitches on the top and bottom
heads, usually pitching the bottom
head lower (which tends to give
you that “beyooow” sound
we associate with toms).
There is no hard and fast rule
but generally you will want to
pitch your toms a fourth or fifth
apart from each other. This helps
to insure that the toms will
also resonate without creating
clashing tones. Some drum manufacturers
such as Drum Workshop will go
so far as to choose drums for
a kit so that their naturally
resonating tones fit well together.
(note: If you are in Pantera
or looking for that early 80’s “In
the Air Tonight” tom sound,
ignore this advice and just tape
the heck out of your drums.)
Summary
Hopefully your drummer will
know how to get the best sound
out of his/her kit, but in case
they don’t no amount of
microphone placement and mix
trickery is going to rescue a
crappy sounding kit. A little
time spent now, could save you
a lot of heartache later on.
Brent Hoover has played drums
for 27 years and sports a
DW tattoo.
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